After yesterday I received and unpacked the package with a Tiger tank at a conversion of suspension and chain tensioner also went off immediately .
Since I am just ha also build on a new suspension for a Leo fits just perfectly in the conversion of these processes and, therefore, off you go .
First, I must plug the bucket , suitable for milling slots in the rocker arms . The necessary parts I have already cut deal yesterday.
because the spoon play as possible fit into the slots and should always be the same I makiere the endpoints of the service with a felt pen on the scale rings. I work with digital measurement rails with hand not very happy . So it is easier.
And I still get a high repeatability .
After I have milled all 16 plug- spoon I must be provided with a 3mm hole for the silver steel axle .
First drill with a center drill and then drill ready with a twist drill .
What happens if you save the step with the center drill and drill begins with the same you can see here on a scrap .
Links , the runny outside the center hole without centering and right as it should be .
I 'm like always on my small lathe with a hand crank.
To make the suspension adjustable I have already prepared some collars with a double clamp. In this I must now still make the appropriate hole for the spring. I always do when I need only a collar , I like this even with a tiger mixed suspension with two spring build strengths and therefore different sized holes that still need to be drilled at different distances from the center of the axle .
And so today I still installed then the axes with the adjusting rings and springs . The stronger springs I built it on the center rollers .
El siguiente usuario dijo gracias: WITTMANN, paracas
Today, the suspension of the Tiger is far done, but first I have to build the aluminum angle of the pen. This I cut myself from a 10 x 10mm aluminum profile handle appropriately. To them then screw on the bottom of the tub I do moch threads in the angle and thus also hold I have my nmap .
First I makiere the later holes and graininess to it , so that the drill can grip.
The hole for the M3 thread in this case I drill with 1/10 undersize compared to a normal core hole , ie 2.4 mm and with good pressure.
The thread then I leave with a finished taps and a cordless screwdriver from the back with plenty of pressure and alcohol.
In this way, at the top of a push-on edge and a thread is more what is now sufficient for direct bolting the angle .
After the angles are presented riding for mounting I put them where they are to be bolted in place and makiere the holes in the ground and the support points of the springs.
To the selected job sites in the soil , I suggest again with a punch from a depression and Drill it with the standing mounted drill. I remove the bottom of the ridge and valley in it . To disappear the screws in half of the tub.
After I made even the springs into the holes of the angle should be very tight , I can mount it .
In between I misunderstand watch but since I 've installed two spring sizes and these are spread slightly in the chassis assembly.
And so the suspension then assembled and preset looks .
Since I was asked why I need this time ...... so long at the two wells today I glued all the pieces .
Today, the chain tensioner was our turn and I've also gone through the same eccentric for the aluminum hull , but first I have to build brackets into the tub. For this purpose first the plastic rings are sanded down , because my clamps are much wider.
And so I turn and Drill the aluminum holders .
Since I have the brackets Cemented into the tub first degrease and roughen the gluing points . Then I can fill it first brushed with metal glue put into the holes and align with a straight bar .
Tomorrow they will still fixxiert with a second adhesive holds well on plastic.
For the eccentric I use a 10 x 10mm brass rod that I put the holes for the 6 pieces .
The holes for 6mm shafts I file again slightly square , so that the brazing alloy is drawn well and keep the axles .
The axles themselves do I feature 6mm silver steel I deburring on the belt sander and the subsequent loop solder joint .
So I can then reap the eccentric with flux and solder hard.
After brazing, I clean the axles and turn the ends .
So I can once again drag on the belt sander in shape so that they look like a casting.
The long axes of the way, I have therefore made that the eccentric can be supported optimally each other in the tub.
The first fact I have glued the brackets in and outside of the pan with a different adhesive on the plastic holds .
Outside the excess glue can be cut if this is just wonderful hard.
Here you can now see how far the axes then reach into the tub in order to support each other as practical without play.
And so the clamps are then finished inside . The terminal screws are hurting in my M4 mild steel , since this keeps the axes best without them.
Now the idlers come to the series. First, the axes of 4mm silver steel. The length I from a small washer and solder one end hard on . For this I put the washer on the end of an axis , moisten it with flux and put a very small piece of hard solder into the disc .
Then I warm the axis from below with a small gas torch until the solder clean axle and wheel connects .
Then the idlers of the series were . I first drilled with a 6mm drill.
In this hole a 6mm brass rod is glued in and controlled erwärtmt .
So I can turn off after 10 minutes and drill a 4mm shaft .
After I montert the axes and the idlers had assembled again , the chain can be adjusted track . This works easiest with two aluminum bars inserted into the drive .
Then I took care of the motor mounting plate . First makiert the positions for the cutouts and then opened with a small blade plate . So you can adjust the suspension now fitted with gearboxes.
And Today the reconstruction of the Tiger is ready ...
But first I have to screw the engines in the new steel gears.
Then I first the joy that once again only a single screw is a screw on the mounting plate and this is also about 1mm too far inside.
So the file out a hole slightly , and a second mating hole in gear and mounting plate attached to the I then cut a M3 thread .
Thus , the transmission and now sits just at the right place .
To check the chain again used a track bar.
Before mounting two tracks Loctite on the mounting plate .
So the transmission does not shift so much and still goes well again .
Supports where the axle I do not screw again . The old holes do not fit anymore and when I put the screws firmly wedged it gladly and clamps the axle. So I have my glue method. First, I need a piece of wrought epoxie .
Side of the tub I paint a thick layer of Pattex .
Then I push the support bearings on the axle lightly oiled and put a ring on Knetepoxie the camp.
Then I Stülpe the countershaft cover and press on the swelling clay with a screwdriver inside of .
But the bonding surface has to dry overnight before being charged , then it holds but is also outstanding and to get back on anyway.
So I can then drive the wheels and the strut on the gear units .
Yet set the suspension and checked the chain track one last time.
The chain is a little short. With the chain tensioners I am at vordesten stop so the idlers are very high, but that may change its owner then quite quickly .
So far everything is ready now and tomorrow goes back to its owner.